Education Center

Education – “Design Lingo”

Here is a brief explanation of the terminology/systems that will be used to describe your piece during the design service.

Measurement
The Metric System is the unit of measurement which is used most widely in the jewelry industry. Because of its consistency in measuring small units, the designer will give you measurements in millimeters. If you are not familiar with the metric system, here are a few pointers that will help you better gain an understanding of the measurements given to you during the design phase.

An American “One Cent” coin, Penny
A penny, being a very common object which is usually extremely easy to come by, is one of the favorite tools of comparison used by Rayne Nouvelle. Take note of the following facts about the coin.

• 19mm in width
• 1.2mm thick
• The Lincoln Monument found on the back of a penny is roughly 14mm in width, which can be divided by each pillar, representing one millimeter a piece.

Google
As the designer gives you measurements using the metric system, you can easily convert them to inches by using one of the most popular search engines on the web, Google. If the measurement given to you is 2mm, you can go to Google and use the following format:

“2mm to Inches”

In return, it’ll give you this: 2 millimeters = 0.0787401575 inches

To get as close to the fractional format used in inches as you can, enter this formula into the search bar:

1 / 0.0787401575 (which reads 1 divided by 0.0787401575)

The result: 1 / 0.0787401575 = 12.7

You may then assume that 2mm equals 1/12.7 inches, or “just over 1/16th inches”.

You may also ask your designer to convert it for you.

Jewelry Properties and Terms
You may find these terms on your “design properties” form.

Profile Height – This is the distance between the top of the finger and the top of a center stone found on a ring. It may also be used to describe earring height from the top of the ear. This property is not applicable with rings without center stones and other pieces of jewelry.

Band Width – This measures the width of your ring. Normally, this property is divided into top and bottom measurements.

Band Height – This measures the ‘height’ of your ring. Normally, this property is divided into top and bottom measurements. The top measurement is usually where the band starts right after the head or the side stones.

Bracelet Length, Width & Height – The Bracelet length is usually given in inches, while width and height are given in millimeters in the case of tennis bracelets up to 25mm or 1 inch in width.

Chain Length & Width – Chain or necklace lengths are usually given in inches, while the width (or thickness) is given in millimeters.

TCW (Total Carat Weight) – This number represents the combined weight of the stones found in your piece, measured in Carats.

Industry Terminology

Antique – In the jewelry industry, as well as others, this can be used to describe a piece at least one hundred years old.

Antique (Finishing method) – This is an artificial tarnishing found on a piece to make it seem older in appearance or to provide contrast to engraving.

Basket – This is typically a gem setting which features vertical prongs and two horizontal rails.

Bezel – This is a setting made up of a ring or a tube of metal which holds a stone firmly by its girdle.

Bishop Bumps – Two small beads which are used to both resize a ring and to keep it from turning on the finger.

Carat – Derived from the Greek word kerátion, “fruit of the carob”, the ‘Carat’ system describes the weight or mass of a gemstone. In early times, Carob seeds were used as weights on precision scales because of their reputation for having a uniform weight, though one carat equals 200mg or 3.086grains by modern standards.

Cathedral (setting) – This is a type of setting which features ‘arms’ protruding from the shank, pointing up toward the center stone of a ring to soften its height without dampening the light entering the stone.

Channel – This type of setting employs two walls of metal to hold a stone or series of stones by the sides. It is most commonly used to set rows of stones that are very close together.

Estate – Any jewelry that was previously owned, both of recent Vintage and Period Jewelry.

Euroshank (European Shank) – This term refers to the shank of a ring which has been ‘squared’ at the bottom. Though mainly used to keep a ring from turning on the wearer’s finger, it is also employed fashionably.

Filigree (filigraine) – The correct usage of this term is used to describe a piece that is delicately made of wire which is soldered together in the style of lace or some other curvy, open motif. While this term has become commonly acceptable to describe a piece of jewelry which has holes punched through it for a more open feel, the term which correctly defines this type is Ajoure.

Flush (setting) – This is a type of setting which describes a piece of jewelry in which its gems are set into the metal that makes up the piece itself, without prongs. It closely resembles bezel setting, but uses the surface of the jewelry instead of a band or tube.

Head – This is the part of the ring which elevates a stone using baskets, bezels or prongs. Some heads are integrated into the ring from fabrication while others are made separately and soldered to a bridge (peg-heads), to cater to easier upgrades or downgrades to center stones.

Karat (or carat, purity) – This is a unit of measure which indicates the purity of a precious metal, like Gold or Platinum, in fractions of 24. There is also a correlating fineness scale, which is a number which corresponds to the fractional equivalent of the metal’s purity out of one thousand. For example, 14K Gold has a fineness of 585. One might see both units of measurement stamped into the inside of a piece, but they refer to the same property.

Milgrain – Milgrain is most often used to describe ‘beading’ or ‘bead work’. This produces the presence of beads most commonly found on the edges of a piece or surrounding gemstones.

Pave (melee, micro) – This is a type of surface setting very similar to flush set stones, except that prongs or beads are employed to hold the gems to the surface. While pave stones can be set individually or in a row, it is most commonly used for large groups of small gemstones, providing what is called the sea of gems effect.

Prong (claw) – Used to hold gems independently or to a surface, prongs remain the most common way to set gemstones. They are bits of metal which are most often grooved or notched to hold a gemstone by its girdle. Types of setting in which prongs are used include baskets, peg heads, pave setting and solitaire setting. They are also frequently called ‘claws’ in the UK.

Shank – The part of a ring which holds the jewelry to the finger of the wearer. It may also be called a band, but use of the proper term allows both the jeweler and the customer to avoid confusion when speaking about one multi-part ring.

Polishing / Finishing Types

Florentine Finish – A crosshatched texture is applied to the surface of the jewelry, providing a formal, sophisticated look.

Hammered Finish – Facets are hammered into the metal of a piece, causing it to throw light from itself almost like a gemstone does.

High Polish – This is the jewelry industry’s standard for providing an attractive, high luster for the metal which makes up the jewelry to which this finishing is applied.

Satin Finish – Also called ‘brushed finish’, a piece that exhibits this finishing is soft, elegant and velvety to the eye.

Bark Finish – The natural feel of this finishing type imitates the bark of a tree. Not only is it bold to the eye, but it also has an addictive texture.

Precious Metals

Bronze – Perhaps one of the earliest of precious metals to be utilized for jewelry, Bronze is the chardonnay amongst them. It can be polished to a rich, strawberry gold colour or maintained at its more recognizably captivating shade of sienna.

Gold – As the world’s most prominent measurement of power, riches and beauty, Gold holds its fame effortlessly as it proudly remains at the very top of the jewelry industry’s choice of precious metals. Because of its unique ability to combine with alloys, this metal can be found in a spellbinding array of colours, from a naturally prestigious yellow to colours like rose, white and even a slight, greenish hue.

Palladium – A relatively new addition to the exclusive list of precious metal choices, Palladium is Platinum’s baby sister. While as bright and hypoallergenic as Platinum itself, it is lighter and slightly more durable. Not only that, but it is notably more affordable at close to 18K Gold Prices.

Platinum – As Gold’s heir to the throne of the precious metal’s kingdom, Platinum is the prime choice for jewelry connoisseurs who love to feel the weight of their jewelry. Its ghostly white colour casts a clean, bright glow about itself. It is especially popular amongst the crème de la crème in the music and movie industries who use it to mount their sizeable diamonds and other precious gemstones.

Silver – As the brightest of all the precious metals, Silver’s timeless allure braves the ever-shifting trends with quiet grace. Though becoming more affordable day by day, it remains an excellent alternative to Palladium and Platinum for seekers of a beautiful piece made of a precious white metal.

Titanium – This unrelenting precious metal stands as a rogue amongst the royal. The mysterious hue of Titanium is like silver in the shade, but it is more famed for its strength. Lightweight and able to be engraved and grooved without losing any of its strength, Titanium, though as unlikely as steel, was accepted into the regiment of metals that jewelers use to create the fashion industry’s most coveted accessories.

Styles, Eras and Periods

Art Deco – Making its appearance after WWI, its practical, geometric and bold countenance was born in rivalry against the sensual and ethereal Art Nouveau style. Art Deco is bold in contrast, sleek in shape, linear in design and utilizing of the most prominent of gemstones like onyx, emerald, diamond and sapphire.

Art Nouveau – Beginning around 1890, Art Nouveau (French for “New Art”) made its appearance in response to the historic revival styles which took precedence in the nineteenth century. With an obvious inclination toward nature, Japanese art and fantasy, its defining features were curved lines, realistic natural objects and animals, dragons and female representations of mythological beings, such as faeries and mermaids.

Edwardian – During King Edward’s reign, people in Europe and America wore this prestigious jewelry specifically as symbols of wealth and well-doing. Every aspect of these Edwardian Period accessories was made of the finest, rarest metals and gemstones on the market. Also referred to as Garland, Edwardian Period jewelry featured garlands of flowers tied together with bows. Other features associated with this type of jewelry include pearls, diamonds and platinum, stylized with flowers, feathers, wings, crowns, leaves and butterflies.

Retro – Right after the Art Deco period ended simultaneously with WWII, supplies of gemstones and metal types became quite lean, restricting the jewelry industry’s precious metal mediums of creation to gold and gemstones like diamond. This era was known for its brooches, floral motifs, animal figures and jewelry inspired by mechanical parts.

Victorian – Circa 1837-1901, a variety of jewelry styles encompassed the Victorian Era made popular includes matching sets of gemstones, sentimental and romantic symbols, mourning jewelry and cameos. This period jewelry was often themed with the historically prosperous cultures long past, like ancient Greece and Egypt; as well as eras of revival and notable change, like the Renaissance and the Gothic movement.